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Words By Ricky Bell, all images (C) Craig Hiller
![]() Ricky on War Horse E5 ![]() Ricky being filmed falling A couple of weeks ago I got up to The Head and finished off a project that I'd had since last year. An amazing new line up a blank wall three pitches of the ground. I'd been on it in December but it still felt a bit beyond me and it was a bit too cold to try and lead then anyway. I went up with my mate Andy as he was looking at a new line at the other end of the cliff, but hadn't even planned on trying it. Conditions were perfect though and I decided I'd try it on top rope. There's no gear for the first 25 feet and there's a couple of insecure moves on slopey side pulls that had always made me wait for a better day. The bottom half of the route felt amazing, the slopey side pulls felt like jugs. I cleaned and practiced the top bit again and it felt alright, a bit on/off but it's safe there. The crux is pretty much the last move, a step through onto a poor smear to get stood up for a massive jug. I chilled out for a bit and decided to tie in and have a go. The first moves felt really bold then it all flowed to the top crux. That trippy head pint feeling where it feel like your watching yourself from outside you body suddenly disappeared as I kicked a bit of grit onto the slopey smear right at the very top and everything snapped back to where I was. It felt like a big deal to finish it, I was so psyched. An Bealach eile E8 6c means ‘The Other Way’ in Irish. Definitely the hardest trad route I've done so far. A bit of a step up for me. Since that I've put all my time into Divided Years. Had a go on lead for the first time last Sunday. It's pretty safe but the climbing is tricky for me at F8a+/b. I placed all the gear on lead and got just a bit too pumped to do the move into the crack. Pretty much the last hard move- was close! Felt really good to actually tie in and try this line. It's totally amazing and something I've wanted to do for a very long time. So I left all my gear at the bottom of the route and had planed to go up this week but the weather hasn't been great. So just waiting for a good day really and hopefully it'll go! Psyched….!
![]() Ricky working Divided Years |


