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Words by Ricky Bell
Charon 60m *** E7 (6c) I'd been working loads to save up for a trip to America so with less time for climbing, I felt really rusty on Charon. It's a long pitch with a big feel to it - all the holds at the crux are wee side pulls and in the hot conditions it felt absolutely terrifying. Even after practicing all the moves on abseil, it was one of those ones were you just really want to be at the top. Route Description: 6m left of Hells Kitchen is a green groove which leads easily to a small square roof. Make a hard move out left at the roof to a niche then up and right past some small holds to a groove which gains the big ledge at half height. From the left end of the big ledge make some insecure moves (crux) straight up to gain the series of niches on the top pitch of Styx. Climb Styx to the pedestals near the top of the wall. Make a hard move to a big flat hold up left and finish straight up on good holds.  Where the Grass is Green E76c. (C) C. Hiller
Where the Grass is Green 35m *** E7 (6c) Where the Grass is Green is amazing - a pumpy line in a spectacular position. It climbs through this really cool looking line of lichen that is all over Fair Head. It's really pumpy at the top and has a cool, balancy barn door move, but safe so it was great fun to climb! Route Description: Start up the second pitch of Wall of Prey to a slopy stance at 5m. Traverse left on slopy holds with your feet just above the buldge to a rest at the top of the steep dark rock. Make hard moves straight up the green wall to another sloper then up and left to a stance on a pedestal. A line of holds above lead out right to below a small roof and an airy finish. Both of Ricky's routes are located in Fair Head, N. Ireland. An excellent source of information on anything to do with this great expanse of climbable rock, is http://www.fairheadclimbers.com/. |